The Dog Walk Debacle

It really is tedious sometimes, attempting to elicit a straight answer from debates on email lists. When the issue of the slats being removed came up at the last ANKC rules review I really had no feelings one way or the other. I figured if they were off or on, it really didn’t matter to me. In 12 years of agility I had only heard of one toe injury that could be proved beyond doubt, that it was caused by hitting a slat in an ugly way. Needless to say none of us here in WA really had a lot of information on this, however, there was a strongly voiced minority who had heard that this rule change to remove slats in the USA had gone horribly wrong and that the slats were replaced fairly rapidly. Yet there were those that were strongly voiced to get rid of them. The travesty that is the ANKC voting system is that it does not use the ‘one state one vote’ system which means WA’s vote counts for one whereas a state like Victoria or NSW counts for two. Seems unfair to me but that’s what we’ve got. So the slats/cleats came off completely. A rather pain in the arse job to do but it got done. Anyway to cut a long drawn out debate short it has been noticed (and still noticed over a year on now) that dogs are mistaking the seesaw for the dog walk and vice versa. Personally I don’t have an issue with it. Slats off the dog walk meant Raven sometimes ‘slid’ into the contact position, it didn’t concern me as she quickly figured out how much braking she needed to do. What I did see and still do see is previously rock solid dogs who ran confidently up the dog walk now come to almost a complete halt as they hug the up plank virtually crawling thinking the plank is a seesaw. I also see dogs that had well trained and well proofed seesaws do hair raising fly offs off the end of the seesaw as they think they were on a dog walk. It happens fairly often, often enough for me to notice. I really think that the touch and visual picture of the slats gave some of our fast dogs a clue as to what they were climbing. I cannot find one other major agility organisation that does not have slats/cleats on their dog walks. IFCS, USDAA, AKC, KC, UKA, NZKC, FCI, CPE; they all have slats on their dogwalk. This to me says something.
So I want to train for fast dog walks. Raven has been known to do sub 1.6 second dog walks in trials, but apparently according to some suggestions from the lists I am on, to have a dog moving at that sort of speed across a dog walk is apparently unsafe and irresponsible. That I should slow my dog down. I had hoped Australia had moved on from this kind of regressive thinking but I see that it is still alive and well in some quarters. Literally hundreds of top level competitive dogs from around the world can train the dog walks to be around 1.5 to 1.6 second mark. This is unsafe according to these thinkers, they believe they see dogs coming off because handlers are pushing for speed. Handlers cannot push for that type of speed, handlers learn how to train a dog who has that innate drive to move at that speed naturally. Dogs do come off when handlers do not set the line nicely onto the up plank or when handlers have not trained their dog to independently set their own line when starting the dog walk. It’s quite frustrating to read these types of statements such as “handlers do not need to have 1.4 second dog walks”. Of course we don’t ‘need’ them if we don’t have any inclination to be competitive at all but then why acknowledge first, second or third place? It’s called ‘Let’s settle for just enough to get us round a course and under time’. Agility is so much more than this. Like I’ve said before I have no issues at all with handlers who want to look at it like this, in fact I encourage them because we need them to keep our sport healthy, but by the same token those of that ilk should not presume to tell those of us who wish to aspire to achieve better in our chosen sport that we are being unsafe in doing so. First and foremost these dogs are our family and we take just as much care as anyone else in the sport to ensure their safety. It is a game we play; but we all know when we take up the sport that we will be exposing our dogs to more risks than your average stay at home pet dog. The enjoyment that our dogs and ourselves get out of it obviously makes it all worthwhile.


Getting Ready for Nationals

Took some photos today of some of the conditioning work I do with Raven and Cypher to get them at their peak fitness for the Nationals coming up in Adelaide, May 4th,5th and 6th.Raven can’t swim quite as fast as Cypher but she gets a head start by doing a launch off the edge rather than the sedate push of Cypher.

Found this place around three weeks ago and I am very happy with it. I swim them three times a week for half an hour. Usually Cypher goes first for 15 minutes followed by Raven for 15 minutes. This last week or so I’ve upped it a bit so that they are swimming for closer to 30 minutes, both are in the pool at once.

My pink nostrilled boy!

Raven doing her stealthy shark impression

I stay up one end and just throw the frisbee to the other end whilst either one of them swims out and retrieves it back to me. The place is called The Dog Pool and is located about 5 minutes up the road from me. There is a crate available so that the dog not swimming doesn’t debride it’s pads running around the edge of the pool, plus a hose to hose off after swimming. It’s reasonably priced too at $12 for half an hour. My guys have been going for about three weeks now and they are loving it, they are keen to get in as soon as we get there. I have to check Raven’s pads afterwards as sometimes the skin gets soft and she rips them easily, I’ve been using good old methylated spirits to dry them out when this happens. Cypher doesn’t have this issue but takes a while to dry even though he is out of coat and still losing it at the moment.
So this swimming is in addition to a couple nights a week agility training at Club and then about 10 minutes a day out in the backyard where I just work on whatever I think needs attention.

Spryte at 8 Months

Spryte is growing up, albeit at her own pace, she is still quite small and is very possibly going to be a 400 height class agility dog. The photos below taken today after a bath, in the backyard.
From this at 11.5 weeks old to…
this at 8 months! Now I know where all that food went….
Starting to show the signs of complete tug addiction!

We are not doing too much agility equipment wise, but she is getting to love the Chase the Toy Around the Cone game which has the effect of teaching her to really dig in and flex her spine for turning tight.

She loves her fluffy fleecy tuggy!

Gozzy Trial March 2007

It was a good night all round for us with only one frustrating 3 seconds out of my 6 runs with my two BCs. I ran another Rhonabwy BC tonight, a boy called Dexter for his first time in Excellent Jumping and he ran beautifully for me right up until I got lost! We lost some momentum; he took a bar and came back out a chute tunnel. My fault entirely, we were going great guns up till then! Fun to run!
I ran the Sheltie Rumour in Open Jumping and she did a lovely cracker of a run for a clear round, she was light hearted and happy tonight and it was good to see.
For my two I was very pleased with how they ran and also pleased to note I was more on the ball with their handling. Raven did a blinder of a run in Masters Agility however I just about completely stuffed up a rear cross for her over a bar that was side by side with another bar. We dithered and faffed and I did copious amounts of yelling but eventually she figured out what I wanted (likely no thanks whatsoever to me!) and we carried on to finish strongly. She ended up with a 3rd place which was good as it’s another leg towards that seemingly far away AgCh Title. Cypher’s run was before hers and this was the one with the frustrating 3 seconds in it, put it this way I yelled ‘Come’ and he went 😛 and sucked into a tunnel, his only saving grace was that I didn’t quite give him enough view of the jump before he tunnel sucked and the bar came down. Other than this hiccup it was a very nice run. My aim for training with him this week is to stop repeating myself when I say come on course (and keep having tug toy on me to reward him with a game) and say it once. Huge party if he responds immediately, turn my back on him and walk away if he doesn’t, show him the toy that he missed out on. Can’t hurt to try. Next up was Open Agility and he flew around this course quite tidily. I had told myself to work his contacts (ie insist on the lie down) as I had seen some pretty quick runs from our experienced dogs and knew he wasn’t in the hunt for a placing really. Of course I didn’t stick to this but I still managed to get him to waste time as he ran through the contact; kind of slowed right down in his strides; looked at me to see if I was going to insist and by that time we were right in front of the next obstacle so I just let him go. Bad handler! I was an idiot and I should have made him do the lie down, it *will* happen at the next trial!! He also lay down nice and fast on the seesaw but way too early and I had to move him up a bit to get it to drop. More time wasted. He did a running contact on the aframe and by that time I was just in the mood to keep on running! So I did and he did and we ran clear for about 7th out of 14 quallies. Oh well another leg towards ADO2. He was then up in Masters Jumping straight after this and he ran a clear round but really no thanks to me! I think I was too wrapped up in thinking about where I should be instead of letting him know which way we were going clearly enough. Just about every tunnel exit had him turning the wrong way mostly due to me not saying anything to let him know which way until *after* he was out of the tunnel. Bit late by then really! I had a plan that totally went awry when I ran to places I hadn’t even intended to run to when I walked it. It was just messy and not smooth and I felt like we could have run that much faster and smoother. Never the less he still managed a pass in the top 6 placings so I was happy with that.

Raven’s Open Agility run felt absolutely thrilling, She was blasting through her running contacts, had the first 5 obstacles done before I could say much at all really as it was a fairly straight line. We were on track for a win when she slammed down that seesaw so quick and was off it before I had the chance to realise she had no chance of seeing the next jump which was perpendicular to the end of the seesaw and visible by one thin upright. She curved into me (because I didn’t say anything helpful like ‘Get Out’!) and ended up copping a refusal on the jump as she had passed the plane. Even with the time it took to bring her back round and get her to do the jump she was no more than half a second or so off the first place time. In Masters Jumping I made an assumption that was just simply wrong, I didn’t think she had much of a choice and thought I had turned my body enough to indicate clearly to take a tunnel, she took a jump. Then she came in on me when I layered the tunnel because my arm signal and verbal wasn’t clear enough and then we just had quite a few other off courses after that because I had pretty much obliterated whatever plan we were going for! She had a ball though and got her jackpot for keeping all the bars up. It was a good night! What I was really proud of her for was that we had 3 fast, incredibly exciting runs and she kept every single bar up! We’ve been doing some extra jump work this week and I think we’ll maintain it! It feels good to finish courses even if we’ve had a blip along the way. So now we wait again…no trials next weekend 😦 but then we hit April with a trial every weekend and Adelaide at the end! I cannot believe how quickly the time is going…and still so much to do. Must admit it’s certainly exciting to look forward to; so far 2100 runs planned for the weekend of the Nationals!

Greg Derrett Chapter 5…The Conclusion

So this is the final chapter in my Greg Derrett Seminar series. It will finish off the Friday night seminar that concluded with Weaving and weave training and go into a run down of what we did at the final seminar on Saturday morning. The weave poles had been set up as usual. First let me post a picture or two of what our weave poles look like.

They are all made of flexible light weight pvc piping and are either stick in the ground individual poles or as in the second picture with the Border Collie they are slipped onto a metal base that is secured to the ground via tent pegs. As you can see they do bend quite substantially. So Greg had us set up twelve of our weave poles and then just asked those with the working spots to run their dogs through calling out after each one whether they single strided the whole way, double footed them or had inconsistent style (ie they flicked between both ways of doing them). The majority of the dogs had an inconsistent stride pattern. Greg said that he strives to get a consistent pattern with his weaving, he doesn’t mind which stride pattern the dog chooses to do more comfortably (however he said the single stride pattern was known to be the quickest) however he does work to make sure the dog consistently sticks to that pattern whatever it ends up doing. Greg trains his weaves using weave-a-matics and V poles and they will be the last piece of equipment that he trains a dog to do. So he explained the structure and design of the weave-a-matics for the benefit of our equipment makes in the audience, I kind of got the picture of what they should look like but I leave it up to the engineering types to make a set. Hopefully our club will have a set in the not too distance future. So Greg has the weave-a-matics out at home and when he first puts a dog on them they are of course lying nearly flat on the ground. See pictures below for examples that I got off the net.

So anyway as you can see the weaves are on a slant and they can slant all the way down to the ground (or they should be able to put it that way). He simply starts off getting the dog to run through them with him running along side with food or a toy on either side, with another person holding as he goes up the other end with toy and gets the dog to release and run through the poles to him. At this time he watches very carefully to ensure the dog is using even striding patterned footwork through all the poles. As soon as he can he brings the poles up by a couple of inches each time, always reinforcing highly and watching to ensure the stride pattern remains consistent, The second the dog starts to do something different with its footwork he lowers it back down an inch and does more repetitions at the lower position before trying to raise it up again. Greg did say that the aim was to get those poles into an upright position as soon as possible. When queried on head positions in weave poles Greg acknowledged that lower head carriage is always going to be faster than head held high (however he also stated that there are some dogs who are still very competitive despite their head position being higher than others). He didn’t have too many suggestions for how you could change this or even if you should try, again weaves being one of those obstacles where you simply should work with what the dog is physically capable of giving you and aim to make of that the best you possibly can. One suggestion was to use very, very short weave poles (ie half the height of the dog) so that the dog has to duck its head down to actually weave the poles. Greg wasn’t too sure how effective this works as he has only seen it done once and it appeared to work for that dog at that session he saw. He also noted that the type of weave poles we used meant that the dogs did not have to weave as much because he observed many dogs just pushing them out of the way because of the flex in them. This in turn caused some fast dogs to get hung up in the poles because they hit them so fast. His advice? Train on solid poles only, that way the dogs get used to not being able to push through them using their bodies as solid poles have no give in them. That way they actually weave with their whole bodies and learn not to touch the weave poles at all or rather just brush by them lightly. He has a drill to train his entries shown in the below diagram;

He got us to show how well our dogs were proofed on weaving by having us run halfway up parallel and then stop whilst they kept weaving. We then veered off to the left about 10 meters as our dogs had to finish the poles. He also go us to run with our dogs halfway up and then quickly flick around and run backwards on the same line as our dogs continued in the weaves, there were a few more I think that I can’t quite recall (didn’t get to write them down as was running Raven). He got us to send our dogs into the poles at a 90 degree angle over a jump, he then got us to run with our dogs doing the same thing. Then the final challenge was the 90 degree entry from over a jump with us rear crossing very closely. That one caught Raven out! I rear cross on her weavers often however never at that angle I must admit.That concludes his talk on weaving, the most important to points is to get fluency on the stride pattern and to bring those poles up as soon as you can. Then once you have that start proofing them!
Moving on to Saturday’s workshop, this again was done with Novice/Excellent level dogs and was the final workshop for the weekend. Jumping was first up on the agenda. First thing Greg did was set up a 4 jump grid that meant the dogs touched the ground twice between each jump. He wanted to have a look at the style of jumping on the dogs. There were one or two who needed work on judging their take off points but by and large he was generally satisfied that our dogs were good jumpers and had a nice style. He brought us back to the whiteboard. First thing he told us is that he is not in anyway a full expert on jumping and that everything he knows about it was gleaned from other more knowledgeable sources than himself. However he did say one thing he has always taught before starting any jumping is hind end awareness and weight shifting. This is where teaching your dog to go backwards and other basic tricks where they have to use their back feet is obviously one way of raising their awareness. He uses tugging as part of his method for teaching the dog to shift its weight back. He does many of the Susan Salo exercises as well as jump chute work but those things have never been a major part of any of his training although he has used them for many students who dogs with jumping issues. Greg believe that the double box work has helped to teach his dogs many of their jumping style skills and that by working double box regularly from the moment they are old enough to start jump training actually gets them well trained in jumping technique. He quickly drew up on the board some of the Susan Salo exercises which involve having bars on low to start with and placing them in a ‘W’shape using four bars with a bar at the bottom, so everything is very close together. There was also the use of a ‘V’ shape running from the uprights on one bar jump to help teach take off points. All these exercises I have seen and done before when one of our club members came back from a Greg Derrett/Susan Garrett Seminar in Queensland a few years ago. If anyone would like me to post the diagrams let me know and I’ll do so. Greg maintains that dogs (particularly Border Collie shaped/type dogs) jump better at the higher heights than the lower. He believes that Border Collies especially need to have the higher jumps to encourage that rounding of the jumping arc as they are so prone to jumping flat naturally. He said if he was competing here (where most BCs are in the 500 height class) he would be competing in the 600 height class. This was food for thought for quite a number of handlers.

Of course we brought the issue up of the bars being knocked what does he do? Greg ignores them. For two main reasons 1) He never wants that dog to slow down for any reason, it’s all about speed and if he starts trying to correct knocked bars this dog may start to slow down 2) He doesn’t believe you can ever really clearly, consistently punish for dropped bars. Out of the whole weekend or four days of seminars this is where I had the biggest difference of opinion with Greg. I knew it was a difference of opinion and knew if I said anything we’d probably just end up wasting a lot of time debating something that he is never going to change his mind on and I was never going to change my mind on. I must admit it was hard for me to fathom never ever letting a dog know that knocking a bar is *not* what I want. I should be clear here, when Greg says ‘punish’ for knocked bars I know that he would consider what I do to be a punishment. I stop running, I tell Raven to lie down (usually about three times), and I replace the bar and leave the course in a trial situation. In training I’ll stop running, tell her to lie down, replace the bar. Sometimes I will start again, sometimes I will continue on and sometimes I will leave and miss our turn. If I don’t do this and start ignoring her knocking bars she will start knocking bars more and more. Greg would probably say this isn’t working since she still drops bars. Yes she does, but she is dropping bars a hell of a lot *less* than she used to! I think to truly understand the importance of teaching your very fast, high drive, completely intense BC, to respect bars and not to touch them you have to actually own and handle a dog who really couldn’t care less if bars stay up or not (and yes I know this attitude was cultivated by when I started jumping her at around 12 months I didn’t take *any* notice of bars dropping). There are not many dogs like this, most of the ones I have seen or trained or instructed have a more careful jumping style or they just don’t have that flat out speed or they just don’t like the feel of hitting the bar. I don’t agree with any kind of negative punishment of knocked bars (ie electrifying bars, fishing line, threatening with dropped bars etc) however I do believe in the removal of the reward (for Raven it is getting to do the course or getting her treats if we are doing single bar work) if a bar is dropped, and I do believe in letting the dog think about why the fun stopped. Yes I know bars drop 9 times out of 10 due to handler error, and the majority of handlers and dogs will ignore their bars dropped in trials and training because the dog does not have a jumping issue. I will ignore most of Cypher’s dropped bars because I know he doesn’t have the same attitude and that he is a fairly clean jumper most of the time plus I need his speed up a bit more. However when you have a dog who purely knocks bars because she is just rushing her jumping too much (and this is only discerned after much soul searching) then you need to do something about it. I know I will never have Raven’s bar issue cured, there has been too many massive gaps in her foundation jump work (as in there wasn’t any…think I just went “Cool she goes fast and can jump over a bar….let’s trial!”) and her pure obsession with going as fast as she possibly can which often means leaving *no* room between her and the bar but I know I can make it better and that is what I work on. Now when we trial, more often that not I will see her try really hard (as in she will work hard to put that extra stride in to round her arc etc) to keep bars up and that is all I ask of her. Sure bars still come down and we still leave the ring but it is certainly not as often as it used to be. So coming back to Greg and his jump training philosophy I agreed with all the drills he recommended as I already do many of them. His approach to what to do with bars dropping will indeed work for most dogs, however having owned such a chronic bar issue dog from here on in I will never disregard a knocked bar. I will always stop what we are doing and put the bar up, no matter which dog I own or train in the future. I won’t have to say anything to them, they won’t have to lie down or anything I’ll just stop, pick up the bar and replace it and the game continues. This is not punishment in my book; it’s just letting the dog know that bar knocking has a consequence, if just for a few seconds.

Moving on….Greg then set up some great jumping drills that he works on at home. Unfortunately when I asked his permission to write all this up on the blog he asked me to leave out the drills from Saturday morning as they are quite new and they will indeed be on his next DVD due out soon apparently. So if you want to know what they are you may have to catch up with me at training one night when I set it up to work on or when I’m travelling around Australia to trial! Or it may be quicker to just wait for the DVD!

We then set up a jumping course that was brought to the seminar by an auditor and we discussed what way we would handle it if we were following Greg’s system for handling. It came back to the decision making again and this is something that makes perfect logical sense when it is broken down into tiny steps however to put it all together and apply to a full size course is another matter. Again we returned to the points system when looking at how to handle something. 1)Where are you going to? 2) What is the distance to the next obstacle? And 3) Where are you coming from? So when looking at a handling choice, such as in the two diagrams below (starting at #4):

There are decisions to be made about which way to take the dog over #5 and over #6. You can see the dog’s path shown by a red line in one diagram and a blue line in the other. We would have to consider where are coming from in terms of #4 to #5. If you ran it with your dog on your right the quickest line without any deviation for the dog would be for the dog to turn left over #5. So that is 1 point for left. We then look at the distance, clearly the shortest distance for the dog to take from #4 to #5 would be for the dog to be heading over #4 closest to the right upright and then wrap around to the right over #5. So that is 1 point for right. So then you go to your last handling consideration and that is looking at where you are going to according to where the last obstacle on the course is (not just where the next obstacle is). You can clearly see that the blue line from #6 to #7 places the dog on the best possible line for the run home, with that in mind looking at the decision you need to make about which way to turn the dog on #5 (remember we are at 1 point for left and 1 point for right so far) having the dog wrap LEFT around the #5 upright with you front crossing close to the upright so your dog is on your left as you head to #6 where you can do another tight front cross on the upright to wrap your dog to the right of #6 then adds 1 point to the wrapping your dog to the LEFT over #5 in the decision making. This makes it 1 point for turning your dog right based on distance but based on where you are coming from and where you are going to you get 2 points for wrapping your dog to the left. This then makes the decision about what to do over #6 no longer a decision. See diagram below with dog’s path in black.

Now this is just two obstacles on a very short sequence where we need to make a decision about which way to turn the dog. Greg’s points system is a logical way of working out the solution. It is something that I will try and use every course I walk from now on. Unfortunately it is still at the conscious steps phase for most of us, that is; we all need to literally step it through with each question and we don’t always get a clear cut answer straight away, or put it this way we don’t *see* the clear cut answer straight away. It can take us quite a while to work it through on something fairly simple like the above examples. We need to get far more proficient and natural at recognising very quickly the best path for the dog to take. As Greg said, he’s been playing this game since he was 12 years old so by now this sort of course decision making is as natural as breathing to him. The rest of us shall just have to work damn hard to get there! Another added advantage of using this system is you quickly identify what skills you need to train for or improve on. Sometimes handlers do not take the glaringly obvious quicker more efficient line for the simple reason of they don’t feel confident enough in their skills to ask this of the dog, they know their dog is not so good at it or they know they themselves are not so good at something (270s, pull throughs, rear crosses, front crosses, post turns, serpentine handling, lead out pivots etc etc) and so they end up taking a longer route, which may of course allow them to go clear, gain a qualification card and even move up a class. I have certainly been guilty of this when trying to gain titles (yet I do note what skills we need to work on and I never settle for baby sitter handling!). So this is one of the drawbacks of not using the win out system in our agility, it does allow handlers to move up even if they don’t have some of those skills at even a very primary level (ie barely proficient). This will in turn lead to some mediocre performing dogs attaining the top levels, it is inevitable. At the end of the day I don’t really have a problem with this as I know Australia will always have those handlers who will strive for perfection in every skill they need for agility and as long there are those I think the ‘must go clear’ system works very well for us.

I have one more additional diagram to include that after reading back through my GD posts I realised I have omitted in my Chapter 3 on front cross drills. I included this diagram here;

What I left out was another diagram that showed the next step up from this one. Initially we were all worried about cracked kneecaps and injured dogs when Greg first put this up.

As you can see the handler really has to move it from the #6 obstacle to well past #8 in order to pull this off. How well it was done depended on how much you had to babysit your dog over #7. However I am glad to report that there were no collisions , perhaps a few near misses but in the end just about everyone achieved it without too much trouble. Our biggest issues was that we were thinking about getting to #8 before ensuring our dogs had committed to #7. It was a very fine line to judge!

So that is the conclusion of this series on Greg Derrett’s training seminars. There was an enormous amount to take in and I certainly will be going back to these notes time and again no doubt, for many of my training needs. It will be fascinating to see his next DVD and I look forward to his long term project one day; that of taking his young pup Detox all the way from 8 weeks old to what he hopes, will be a future World Champion. Any questions, suggestions, comments or feedback greatly appreciated, it may be a long time now till our next presenter!

The Atopic Question

Having a dog that is atopic is not a light hearted matter. Raven was diagnosed around the age of 2 years old by Murdoch’s dermatology department. She has been ‘managed’ all her life. I found this website today which gives a very complete and detailed analysis and coverage of treatments available. It’s always good to read up on other possible ways to make her itchy life a little less itchy.

Cool website

After rereading my post about Greg’s thoughts on contacts I went and looked up Silvia Trkman’s site again. I discovered she has uploaded quite a number of videos since the last time I visited and I was thoroughly entertained and mesmerised by them all. Especially the one of her 11 month old Border Collie Bu doing repeated perfect running contacts. This dog is 54.5cm at the shoulder and the fact that Silvia has got this kind consistency already with a large dog proves to me that running contacts are possible. It has inspired me to want to retrain Cypher’s contacts (after the Nationals mind you!) and to start doing small sessions with a down plank everyday with Spryte. Spryte has been over a full dogwalk and a lowered aframe already with me doing nothing except running with her encouraging her to run through the bottom by throwing a well placed treat. Which is what Silvia describes but just that with the dogwalk it should be on a flat plank initially maybe very slightly raised. I’ve decided I need a longer plank! Off to Bunnings today! Also inspiring were the videos of tricks that she teaches, it’s fairly obvious why she doesn’t have bar issues, her dogs are very aware of their two back feet! Her article about Agility is Good for dogs is also interesting reading. And if anyone can translate Slovenian I’d love to read her training articles for a Slovenian magazine!